Section 107 is packed full of great tips by some of the most experienced riders in the industry. Please take a look and see what you could learn by attending the next MX Clinic
Deep Ruts

1 The Approach- When approaching a rutted corner make sure that you are looking ahead to pin point where you are going to enter the rut. This will make you come in straight and help you better set up for the rut. As you are coming into the rut sit down and slide toward the front of the seat. It is also important to weight your outside footpeg to add stability and control to the bike, which will make it easier to stay in the rut. Another key element to having good stability when entering and going through ruts is elbow position. You should have your outside elbow up which helps weight the front wheel and also gives you control of your bike.


2 In The Rut-
Once you settled into the rut, it is important to look forward to the exit of the rut. Your body follows your line of sight. If you are fixed on the exit of the rut that is where you will go. If you are looking just past your front wheel you will most likely climb out of the rut or over steer losing valuable time. Also keeping your leg up high and slightly bent, planted against the shroud helps with balance and control. 


3 The Exit-
When you are exiting the rut you want to be on the throttle pulling into the bike. This will keep the front wheel down and allows you to keep your momentum up getting you ready to hit the throttle harder down the straight away.

Slick Corners

1) As you approach the corner you will need to make the transition from standing to sitting- The movement should be smooth and fluid to help keep your wheel in line for the corner. It is also important to be in the correct gear. If you are in to low of a gear your suspension won't work properly making it more difficult to track through the corner smoothly. Being in to low of a gear will cause excessive wheel spin upon acceleration. Being in to high of a gear will cause the bike to bog.

 

2) Once you are in the sitting position get forward on the seat- In doing so, you want to be sure to transfer your weight to the outside of the bike by moving half your butt off the side of the seat. This will also help weight the outside of the foot peg. A very important step to keep the rear wheel tracking through the corner and you being able to maintain control.

 

3) You also want to make sure your outside elbow is up throughout the entire corner- By doing this, you will weight down the front end giving your front end control. If your elbow is down, you will drift off the corner causing you to lose control and time. In addition to keeping the outside elbow up its equally important to have your inside leg out to lean the bike over and maintain your balance.

 

4) Applying Throttle- When the corner is slick, roll the throttle on smoothly with no clutch. This way there is less of a chance that the wheel will break loose. This is why being in the correct gear is so important.

Seat Bouncing

(1) SIT BACK-The further you are sitting back on the seat the more lift you will get from the bike. The more you go towards a neutral position the less lift you will receive from the bike. If you are sitting to far forward the front will drop and then the bike will kick you forward or over the bars.

(2) PULL BACK- At the same time you sit back on the seat, you should also pull back on the bars to keep the front end from going down and the back end from kicking you. If you do these two things at the same time, the bike should fly straight.

(3) COMPRESS THE SUSPENSION- Compressing the suspension by sitting down helps you to go further and higher off the jump. It gives you the lift that you need when compared to standing up and hitting the same jump. 

(4) HIT THE THROTTLE SMOOTHLY- You want to make sure you have the gas on all the way off the face of the jump. If you don’t do this, the bike might kick you over the bars since the front wheel will likely drop when you leave the face of the jump.

(5) START OFF On A Table TOP- If you’re going to try this for the first time, do it over a small tabletop jump and see how it is. There are definitely better jumps to do this off of than others, and if it’s right out of a corner, that is the jump most likely to do it on. 

Concrete Starts

(1) Make sure your tire is clean before entering the pad. This will help ensure you get as much traction and as little wheel spin as possible when leaving the starting gate. It is also very important to sweep the concrete clean of any dirt or mud before entering the starting pad.

(2) Once you are on the pad. Start the bike and do a couple dry hops. This will make sure the surface of your tire is tacky and clean. It will also give you a good feel for where your clutch will engage and how much gas to give it off the start. Roasting your tires on the start doesn’t do anything but burn through your tires and waste money. Be sure to sit down in the middle-back of the bike with both feet down. This will help to weight the back of the bike further preventing wheel spin of the start.

(3) Sit with your back straight. If you just lean back it won't help put any more weight on the rear of the bike, this is why getting the proper seating position is important. Personally because I am shorter (5'10") I start with my feet on the side of the pegs. Taller riders should have no problem starting with their feet in front of the pegs. 

(4)Now that we are in a good position on the bike We should concentrate on being smooth with the clutch release. Once you start to release the clutch keep your weight back until you hit the dirt. Once you hit the dirt keep your legs tight to the bike, this will help you keep you going straight and in control of the motorcycle.